You will need
100gm (150gm, 150gm, 200gm, 100gm) aran weight yarn.
1 x 5mm circular needle (NB. 60cm is fine for larger sizes, but 40cm is good for all sizes. If you use a 60cm circular b=needle the first round after casting on will be tight, but once the first round is completed it is easy)
1 x 5.5 mm circular needle
1 pair of 5.5mm straight needles
2 stitch holders
2 stitch markers (small tied loops of yarn work fine for this)
1 set of 5mm Double pointed needles
1 yarn needle (for sewing)
XSmall (approx 0-4 months)
Small (approx 3-12 months)
Medium (approx 9-18 months)
Large (approx 15-30 months)
X Large (approx 2-4 yrs)
Using a 5mm circular needle cast on 72 (80, 88, 96, 108) stitches.
Join the round, add a stitch marker, then complete 3 rounds K2 P2 rib
Video link to joining the round
Next round make cord holes.
*K2 Yfd K2tog, K2 yFd, K2tog * Repeat to end of round.
Complete 3 more rounds K2P2 rib
K3 (2, 4, 3, 2) stitches
Turn and then P6 (4, 8, 6, 4)
Turn and then K11 (10, 14, 13, 12)
Turn and then P16 (16, 20, 20, 20)
Turn and then K 21 (22, 26, 27, 28)
Turn and then P26 (28, 32, 34, 36
Turn and then K31 (34, 38, 41, 44)
Turn and the P36 (40, 44, 48, 52)
That completes the shaping.
Changing to a 5.5mm circular needle, knitround. Once you reach your stitch marker, start counting as you knit.
Count and K36 (40, 44, 48, 52) and place a second stitch marker, preferably a different colour, so you can differentiate the centre back fro the centre front.
Maintain the placement of both stitch markers as you knit, so you know where you are in each round.
Continue knitting in the round, until your work measures 4" (4.5" 5" 5.5" 6") measuring from the bottom of the cord holes at the centre FRONT of the soaker, and finishing the round at the centre back stitch marker.
Starting at the centre back
K54 (60, 66,72,78)
Slip the last 4 (5,6,7.8) stitches you knitted onto a stitch holder.
Change to 5.5mm straight needles.
K 36 (40,44,48,52) stitches onto your first straight needle. Then slip a further 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) onto the straight needle, and from there slip these last slipped stitches onto a stitch holder.
Leaving the remainder of the stitches on the circular needle continue with both straight needles, working only the stitches which now remain on the straight needle. You are now knitting in rows, and no longer knitting in the round.
Next row (turn your work around)
*K1, P to penultimate stitch, K1 turn your work around.
K2, K2tog through front of stitches, K to last 4 stitches, S1, K1, PSSO, K2*
Repeat the last 2 rows until you have 18 stitches on the needles (9 each side of the stitch marker).
Slip these 18 stitches onto a DPN (Double Pointed Needle) and cut off the yarn, leaving a tail of yarn 6-9" long
Tip – as you work these decreases, keep checking that you have an equal number of stitches either side of your stitch marker at the start of ever every purl row – it's easy to forget a decrease otherwise
Starting back with the stitches which remain on your circular needles, but using 5.5mm straight needles, join in the end of your ball of yarn
K1, P to the penultimate stitch, K1. (knit the tail end of your yarn into the first few stitches, to secure the end)
K2, K2tog through front of stitches. K to the last 4 stitches, K2tog through back of stitches, K2*
Repeat these rows until you have 18 stitches on the needle.
Graft the 2 sets of 18 stitches together.
Video link to grafting.
Using 3 of your set of 5mm DPNs, evenly pick up and knit 32, (39, 42, 45, 48) stitches evenly around the cuff, then knit across the stitches on the stitch holder. You should now have 36 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches on 3 of your DPNs. Here's a video
NB. If you have a chunky thighed monster, add an extra 4 stitches to the number of stitches you pick up)
Mark the start of your round with a stitch marker, and then, using a fourth DPN, knit 6 (7, 8, 9, 9) rounds in K2P2 rib.
Bind off (Cast Off)
Repeat the above with the second leg.
Make a draw cord for the waist